Terrace Tower Routes

The White Tower (5.11) and Light in August (5.12-)

Terrace Tower S Face with 1997 and 2001 routes marked
(photo by Jay Knower - 1999)

Left to right: 1. The White Tower, 1997 (route 22a); 2. Light in August, 2001 (route 22b). Route numbers refer to those in my guide.

The 2005 route "Brent's Hammer" (route 23a) is hidden around the corner, I believe.


Brent's Hammer 200m 5.11+

Terrace Tower SE Face with the 2005 route Brent's Hammer marked
(photo by Joshua Lavigne - 2005)

Brent's Hammer 200m 5.11+ A. Mawson, D. Lavigne and J. Lavigne July 2005

A steep line on the SE face of Terrace tower which consists of mostly clean hand jamming. The line is dry when every thing else is wet and gets lots of sun. Fixed raps on nuts and pins will bring you back to the base. Full rack w/ triples in Camalot 1 and 2. A # 4 or 5 is nice for the last pitch.

Approach: Scramble left up the grassy ledges below the face leading to a loose gully, 5m after the gully step up and right, begin the first pitch in an arching, right facing corner.

  1. 35m 5.10 Step up and left on mossy dirty ledges, solid stemming on good gear leads to small alcove. Continue up the corner until the crack thins and step right on a sloping rail to a flake and pin. Pull the exposed mantel onto a mossy, dirty ledge. Belay to the right. Fixed belay.
  2. 25m 5. 10 Climb the left hand crack on knobs to a large grassy ledge, fire straight up the thin crack with an exciting exit move. Traverse right with poor pro to a small roof in a right facing corner. Gear Belay.
  3. 30m 5.10+ Let the hand jamming begin, trend left in the splitter crack, then a finger crack leading to a ledge. From the ledge tren right up the left facing corner to the steep groove. Fixed gear belay.
  4. 25m 5.10- Continue up the right facing corner through blocky roofs, step right and belay in the splitter hand crack. Gear Belay.
  5. 30m 5.11+ Steep hand jamming leads to a cruxy flare and a roof. Bust through the roof and cruise the 15m's of perfect overhanging hand jamming. Fixed belay.
  6. 35m 5.11+ Step left pulling gently on the paper-thin flake. Climb the right facing corner to a wet off-width, do what you can to pull through this nasty section then trend right through overhanging terrain. Pull over the crest of the arête and scramble to the top. Fixed belay.

Descent: Rappel the route in four (double-rope) raps as indicated in the above photo.